I Know Places…
Yes, I’m still mostly listening to Taylor Swift. But that’s not what this week’s newsletter is about. Instead, travel recommendations, and, at the end, Something Good as always.
As I mentioned last week, I had a week away in France at the end of last month. Taking some time somewhere warmer at the end of September is a new tactic of mine to stretch out summer and stave off autumnal darkness as long as I can. Last year, Bristol. This year, the Côte d’Azur… I’m not sure I can afford to see this through to its logical conclusion. It was the first time I’d ever done a ‘summer holiday’ (as opposed to a ‘city break’) by myself, and also the first time I’d done an international trip from the UK by rail. Other than some shenanigans around engineering work (the effect of which was mostly that I took 24 hours to explore Paris rather than continuing straight back on homewards), the train journeys mostly worked pretty well, and made the whole trip feel more of an adventure than if I’d simply got a taxi to Edinburgh Airport and jumped on a plane. Plus, you know, better for the conscience.
I’d been worried that solo travel won’t appeal anymore, not after spending so much time alone during the lockdowns and since then, but I had a great time. My top tips for travelling alone are always:
Stay in a hotel or hostel with some common space - having somewhere to sit that isn’t your room and doesn’t involve ‘going out’ always helps.
Gen up on the language a bit, whether via Duolingo (which I’m a massive fan of) or some other method. When I went to Amsterdam at the start of 2019, I found the fact that I couldn’t even read street signs with any degree of confidence hugely disorientating, despite the fact that everyone there speaks English. On this trip, by contrast, I was able to make conversation with the women in my compartment on the overnight train, despite their not having a word of English (or Spanish or German, both of which I can communicate in).
If you’re there longer than a couple of days, find a base for the evening - that’s when I always get lonely after a day sightseeing. For me, this is usually an Irish or Aussie pub. It’s lovely to sit at the bar and have English-speaking chat for an hour or so at the end of the day.
I’ve been asked to share details of the trip, and recommendations for places to eat and drink in both Paris and Nice, so I thought I’d write out a rough itinerary and share it with you all here.
Friday 23 September
06:26 - 10:52 Train from Edinburgh Waverley to Kings Cross - I splashed out on First Class because of the early start, so enjoyed a full breakfast and copious amounts of coffee while gazing out over a set of views I know pretty well, from travelling along this route all the time.
A forgettable lunch at St Pancras, and the purchase of a few books at Hatchards there, before:
13:31 (UK time) - 16:47 (French time): Eurostar to Paris! I was hugely surprised that there was 4G signal in the tunnel - technology continues to shock me.
Dinner was a big salad at La Maison opposite Gare d’Austerlitz, before picking up some ‘train snacks’ (and wine) at Monoprix and boarding the night train:
20:51- 09:08 (per the timetable) Intercite de Nuit to Nice. Following guidance from Mark at Seat61, I booked a bunk in an all-women 1st class couchette compartment. Much roomier than UK sleeper trains, this was a comfortable - and cheap - way to cover the distance. We were almost three hours late getting into Nice due to having spent a long time stationary at Dijon, but as it was raining and I had a good book with me, that was no hardship.
Saturday 24th September
Checked into my hotel, a Mercure in the centre of Nice. I got a screaming deal on this (about £135 per night, including breakfast) thanks to being outside of high season. The kicker: there’s a rooftop pool. I spent a few afternoons and days sunbathing up there - holiday time very well spent.
Rather than going day-by-day, here are my recommendations for Nice:
A weekly pass for the buses and trams is 15 euro - the public transport system there is excellent and this was great value for money
The only thing I booked before going was a foodie walking tour with No Diet Club - definitely worth the money, I didn’t need dinner that night and just wanted to starfish across my hotel bed. We lost count of all the gorgeous places our guide, Audrey, took the group to - none of which I’d have found by myself. This link to book the tour via Viator should give you a discount (and will give me a discount on the next Viator experience I book, for full disclosure).
Bio Brod, behind the Musee Massena - incredible bakery
Bar du Coin in the old town - the best pizza I’ve had this year
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild - as with all the Rothschild mansions, jaw-droppingly gorgeous. This also provided a really good history of Nice and the Côte d’Azur as a winter playground for high society during the Belle Époque.
La Civette, nearby in St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat - this was the only place near the port I could find that offered a sandwich-and-coffee type lunch rather than a 25 euro restaurant meal.
After visiting the Rothschild villa, I followed the hiking path around the perimeter of the peninsula, known as Sentier du Littoral. It’s not particularly strenuous - I was wearing a dress and sneakers - but one to avoid during bad or very hot weather, as it’s very exposed.
Comptoir Central Electrique, a cool bar in the Garibaldi/Port area of Nice
Van Diemen’s, the Aussie pub I went into a few nights out of the trip - very welcoming and great bar food.
Friday 30th September
Packed up and checked out, then spent the day mooching around the shops before catching the train:
19:16 - 06:55 night train to Paris.
Saturday 1st October
This time we were only 45 minutes or so delayed, and after spending some time in the station loo freshening up I headed to my hotel, a cheap Ibis Styles in the 19th, to leave my suitcase and backpack, before meeting a friend from uni for coffee and a pastry and strolling around the city centre for a couple of hours.
Paris recommendations:
The French Bastards - source of said coffee and pastry; this is a smallish chain and definitely worth a visit
Au Petit Versailles du Marais- the only place I’ve ever had a triple-decker Croque Monsieur.
La Mouette Rieuse - a great bookshop and gift shop with a small cafe and terrace at the back
The cafe belonging to Shakespeare & Company, with a great outdoor seating area, where of course I bought one of their tote bags, so I can show everyone I’ve been
And finally (in an even more ‘basic bitch’ move), the famous Citypharma, to stock up on Nuxe and other French toiletries
By the end of the day I was too wiped to do anything but pick up a snacky dinner from Monoprix - but I had officially fallen in love with Paris.
Sunday 2nd October
Got a hot chocolate and croissant (which I obviously dipped in the hot choc) at Terminus Nord Brasserie, again recommended by Mark from Seat61, before boarding the 10:13 - 11:31 Eurostar back to London, after which it all went a bit ‘tits up’ in terms of trains, but I eventually got back home to Edinburgh about 7pm, and straight to sleep.
So, as you can see, a bit of an adventure, and one I’ll remember for a long time.
Something Good…
M&S is criminally underrated. This may or may not be news to you. In particular, their shoes are incredible. I bought this new pair of boots this September and have been absolutely living in them, especially with dresses and tights (aka, my autumn/winter uniform).
Cappucinos. With a spoon. To eat the cocoa-topped foam. Stunning.
Have a wonderful week, everyone - speak soon!
Lily